Avoiding brush marks in Rustins Plastic Coating...How?

[Graham Orm]

Anyone?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Are you trying to brush it out too far? I've not had a noticeable problem. You can try thinning the last coat.

 

[Peter Sefton]

We use it occasionally in the School workshops, I tend to thin it by about 5%, use a good quality brush and don't overwork it. It will soon dry and drag if you brush it to long. We usually cut it back after the first coat and then re-coat every 45 minutes or so for three or more coats, catching the timing just right.

From memory the instructions recommend leaving it 24 hours between coats.

Re-coat as required but the surface can be either cut back to a flat finish or burnished up to a glass like finish if preferred.

It's very durable for a hand finished polish.

Cheers Peter

 

[Graham Orm]

Thanks for the input guys. I try and brush as little as possible. When you say you thin it by 5% how do you mean Peter? I'm mixing 10mls of coating with 2 mls of hardener per coat.
I've had the stuff for ages and have lost the instructions that came with it. How many coats is enough to be able to burnish it up?
Why is it important to catch the timing for the next coats? I've been giving it 2 hours.

 

[Peter Sefton]

This is a data sheet, I found two giving different advice but this one looks best

http://www.agwoodcare.co.uk/pdf/rustins ... oating.pdf

But now it's time for Luther!

Cheers Peter

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You need thinners as well as hardener. You can buy it all separately. A couple of hours between coats won't hurt if the stuff is touch dry (or so I've found), but don't do more than two or three coats at a time then allow to dry properly before applying any more - it dimples (orange peels) because the solvent in the lower layers can't escape.

 

[jimmy_s]

There was a good post on here a few years ago which may help:

rustins-plastic-coating-straight-from-the-horses-mouth-t61190.html

 

[Graham Orm]

You need thinners as well as hardener. You can buy it all separately. A couple of hours between coats won't hurt if the stuff is touch dry (or so I've found), but don't do more than two or three coats at a time then allow to dry properly before applying any more - it dimples (orange peels) because the solvent in the lower layers can't escape.

Thanks Phil.

 

[Graham Orm]

There was a good post on here a few years ago which may help:

rustins-plastic-coating-straight-from-the-horses-mouth-t61190.html

That's an excellent post and answers a lot of questions for me. Thanks Jimmy.

 

[beganasatree]

Hi Jimmy,thanks for the link to the post.I have bought some for a small job in the new year and the info will be helpful.All the best for the new year.

Peter.

 

[Rhossydd]

I've had the stuff for ages

That might be your problem if there's been a degree of solvent loss.

 

[Graham Orm]

I've had the stuff for ages

That might be your problem if there's been a degree of solvent loss.

Not so. It's working fine. I was using it to finish 2 Jewellery boxes for xmas, but didn't quite get there. I'veput them on hold now while waiting for some burnishing cream. I've tried T-cut which takes it back a bit but as I've missed xmas I thought I'd try the proper stuff.

 

[Rhossydd]

Not so. It's working fine.

You're the one with the brush stroke problem. Too thick a liquid may well cause that if it's been sitting around for too long as you said.

 

[Graham Orm]

Not so. It's working fine.

You're the one with the brush stroke problem. Too thick a liquid may well cause that if it's been sitting around for too long as you said.

Both containers were full and unopened. I don't think I was flatting it enough. I'll go back to it when the burnishing cream arrives.

 

[buzzby]

i found it best to apply quite thick and the brush marks would then fall out. Would let a coat set for quite a few hours and then apply again. Have done 2 or 3 coats with a quick cut with wire wool in between each coat. Then would sand with 400 to flatten everything and up the grit as needed.

The burnishing cream is good at getting rid of the cloudyness that can be left by the sanding process.

A really nice finish when it done but a real pain and mess to get it. I got nearly as good a result with some spray lacquer on a different project.

 

[Graham Orm]

i found it best to apply quite thick and the brush marks would then fall out. Would let a coat set for quite a few hours and then apply again. Have done 2 or 3 coats with a quick cut with wire wool in between each coat. Then would sand with 400 to flatten everything and up the grit as needed.

The burnishing cream is good at getting rid of the cloudyness that can be left by the sanding process.

A really nice finish when it done but a real pain and mess to get it. I got nearly as good a result with some spray lacquer on a different project.

Thanks for that. Burnishing cream due in the first week of Jan, I've shelved it till then but will post pics when it's done.