All for a screwdriver

[condeesteso]

I called by Jim the other day, and was admiring his collection of perfect screwdrivers (is that what they are called?), then bemoaning the difficulty in finding a well-cut screwdriver for no6 and no7 screws. (I use those a lot - brass, slot-head.)
Now, down my way, anything bigger than a no8 is called a joint.
Anyway, Jim gave me this - it's apart already (I can't keep stopping all the time to take pics).
Going to take a while to regrind the blade profile but it will be right tasty, and maybe have maple handle faces... not sure yet. Maybe ebony... balsa?, have to see what's around.

By the way, if you ever call by Jim's, do not take your wallet. I have been twice and so far I'm in for a log-burning stove and a fab old Coronet lathe. I'll get his pillar drill one day too, but he doesn't know that yet. (see Jim's thread on the pillar drill - it is a thing of beauty for sure).

(sorry- edited to correct my screw sizes, now the joke works... for me anyway

 

[jimi43]

It's a "Perfect Handle" screwdriver.....CLICK HERE

There were other tools that were made with this technique. I like them cos you can bash them without adverse affect...in fact...that is what they are intended for. Useful for mechanics hence many of them having black grease-ridden handles (scales).

They are so tactile to hold...one of my most favourite designs. I hear tell...Derek has a few :wink:

Jim

P.S. Keep yer mits off me drill!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

 

[condeesteso]

update - blade re-profiled and fits a No8 bang-on now. may keep it that way and find a smaller one one day for my 6s and 7s.

Handles next, quite tricky I suspect - Jim gave me a few tips. Prob going to be African blackwood...

 

[Alf]

Perfect handles always makes me think of Scott Grandstaff - he even has perfect handles on tools that never used to have them. His explanation of how he fits new wooden scales is here, fwiw.

 

[jimi43]

Perfect handles always makes me think of Scott Grandstaff - he even has perfect handles on tools that never used to have them. His explanation of how he fits new wooden scales is here, fwiw.

Yup...great minds think alike...that is the conclusion I came to as to how to do it...after spending hours whittling the first one I attempted!

Jimi

 

[condeesteso]

bang-on good tips, and just at the right time. Fancy a few awls too now!! These things look so great and do feel very good to handle. And I keep learning new words too... scales. Will try and remember.

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Alright, I'll show my utter lack of knowledge ... what's an awl? Do I know it as a Bradawl?

Cheers _Dan

 

[matthewwh]

Hi Dan,

There are three kinds of awl, brad, birdcage and scratch.

Brad Awls have a screwdriver like tip (and are usually knackered by people trying to use them as a screwdriver or a chisel) these are used in the centre of a board and always started across the grain to avoid splitting.

Birdcage Awls are the tapered square section, less efficient but safer to use near the edge of a board as their propensity to start splits is lower.

Scratch Awls or marking points are tapered cylinders and are used much like a marking knife, a point is much less inclined to follow the grain than a knife, so they are a popular tool for long grain marking.

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Top-man, cheers. (As soon as I saw your answer it all came flooding back to me! It's been a long day ) I was taught that a Scratch Awl was called a Brad Awl, and that they were the only type of awl! Ha-ha!

Cheers _Dan.

 

[bugbear]

Birdcage Awls are the tapered square section, less efficient but safer to use near the edge of a board as their propensity to start splits is lower.

The arris should be sharpened - a birdcage awl is a proper cutting tool, working just like a small tapered reamer.

BugBear

 

[pedder]

Hi,

the handle is perfect for sure. But in my opinion a slotscrewdriver works much better, when the flats are parallel.

Cheers
Pedder

 

[Alf]

There are actually four kinds of awl*. The Brad, the Birdcage, the Scratch, and (wait for it) the Know-it...

I'll get me coat. :wink:

*Actually not even close - but most of them won't trouble the majority of woodworkers so it matters not.

 

[bugbear]

update - blade re-profiled and fits a No8 bang-on now. may keep it that way and find a smaller one one day for my 6s and 7s.

Handles next, quite tricky I suspect - Jim gave me a few tips. Prob going to be African blackwood...

I think I'd have hollow ground the tip(*) - getting a tip parallel by taper grinding leaves it long, thin and potentially weak by comparison.

BugBear

(*) I happen to have a small and usually unhelpful hand grinder with a 3" wheel

 

[Harbo]

I have a couple of these screwdrivers (somewhere?) and although I like the look of them, I find them to be very uncomfortable to use - the metal digs in.
According to Salman they are for rough work and can be used as a cold chisel.
I much prefer the Cabinet type in boxwood.

Rod

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

BB is correct in my opinion .. the blades should be hollow ground and never wedge-shaped. The wedge will cause them to fit poorly in the slot of the screw and cam out.

This is bad ...

.. and this is better ...

Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo ... crews.html

I have a bunch of Perfect Handle screwdrivers. Mainly they are used for certain dedicated duties, such as opening paint cans. They are pretty nonetheless.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[jimi43]

I actually like the feel of the Perfect handle screwdriver....I have seen you collection Derek...it is quite impressive! Any chance of another picture of them?

I spoke with Douglas about the hollow ground issue...I agree with you guys...the flat ground looks nice but to fit into a slot perfectly the end of the driver needs to fit as tight as possible in the slot, all the way up to the top.

Mind you I have seen what Douglas has done with the end of the basket case I gave him and it is quite impressive. Looks like it has been done in a factory!

Jim

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi Jimi

I like the clean look of the PH screwdrivers. In fact there was a time I began collecting them because of this. There are about 5 or 6 of varying sizes now lying in a drawer. At one time they were used. This thread inspires me to get them out and restore them (bling them!).

It is just that they proved too small for my hand for comfort.

As requested, here are my current users (in the newly rebuilt workshop). A set of more traditional flat blades, a few Philips heads, and then a number of Stanleys ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[condeesteso]

Accepted re hollow ground, but we're only talking a few degrees of difference here. First time I've ever studied blade screwdrivers this closely. Have a set of Crown but that's it. Anyway just spent ages hand grinding and they do fit nice, so leave them like that for now. Fitting the shells nice and tight not so easy though. I've started so I'll finish... but not quickly.

 

[jimi43]

Accepted re hollow ground, but we're only talking a few degrees of difference here. First time I've ever studied blade screwdrivers this closely. Have a set of Crown but that's it. Anyway just spent ages hand grinding and they do fit nice, so leave them like that for now. Fitting the shells nice and tight not so easy though. I've started so I'll finish... but not quickly.

It's a fine art but when you get the idea...they just get easier. I have to say..my first one was not very good!

Jim

 

[bugbear]

Accepted re hollow ground, but we're only talking a few degrees of difference here.

I wasn't advocating hollow fur the purpose of getting a parallel end for fit (I don't think screws slots are precise enough for that to a realistic issue).

I was concerned about the weakening effect of all your grinding.

BugBear