1st metal lathe questions pt2 - Oils

[Togalosh]

Evening Gents,

Please help, what do you use as a cutting oil or compound & where do you get it from? I can't find much on old threads.

I have read up on so many things lately in preparation for my ML4 install this weekend that now learning all about cutting oils & compounds at this late stage is too much for now (I was up at 5:30am researching stuff as I couldn't sleep) .. if all goes well I'd like to try the lathe out straight away. Could I use 3in1 or some engine oil temporarily or is that just too lazy/wrong? I haven't gotten to cutting yet in The Amateur's Lathe but I assume that oil technology has come on a bit since 1948 ..

So, cutting oil or compound- then which ones do you recommend & why ? Is there really a need for different oils for different types of work on the same metal if I am not working at NASA/McClaren ?

Arceurotrade do some expensive ones, chronos do some cheap ones (but their website is poor with little detail)..other sell in gallon drums only but that's just too much.

I will do a little Stainless Steel, less Aluminium (but my 1st job is to turn down the teeth on an Aluminium pulley to make a handwheel) & mainly steel & brass. Someone mentioned "paraffin" for Aluminium . surely that is a paraffin oil - I've not seem that yet.

What do you use to lubricate The Ways (not the bed - according to Mr Sparey) another special oil ?

As ever, any advice would be appreciated.
Togs

PS; The Amateur's Lathe is an enjoyable read "No electric motor above 1/10 h.p. should ever be connected to the house lighting circuit" & on not earthing machinery "..it is quite common..for the operator to experience an electric shock.. this can be dangerous"

 

[DTR]

For cutting fluid I use a small bottle of CT-90. It's a generic cutting oil that's cheap and easy enough to get hold of. I think I bought my last bottle from e**y. For aluminium, WD40 works very well. Cast iron and brass can be worked dry, although brass can squeal if it's not lubricated.

For lubricating the headstock bearings, I the recommended oil is Nuto H32. I've literally just bought a bottle of the stuff (e**y again). Previously I was using a bottle of motor oil I happened to have (I don't know what grade). Technically motor oil isn't recommened as the detergents can promote rust, but that's only a problem if the lathe sits idle for an extended period. At the end of the day, any oil is far better than none at all.

For oiling the ways, there is such a thing as "way oil". It's specially formulated to cling to the way surfaces rather than run off. I'll confess to using my generic motor oil again.

+1 to The Amateur's Lathe being a good read. It inspires me to see how "make-do and mend" they were back then. I read a book from the same era recently on engine-making, and it casually mentions making your own castings, and buying asbestos cotton from your local tool shop!

 

[Harbo]

Years ago, I bought some cutting oil from Warco, a small pot of Trefolex tapping paste and lubricating oil from Arc Euro Trade - all at the MEX at Ally Pally.
In fact these shows, which are held at various locations throughout the country, are a good source for materials, accessories etc.

Rod

 

[chipmunk]

If you've not used them before I'd recommend these people...
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/lubetechoilsupplies/

Their generic ISO-32 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PREMIUM-H...PART-2-SPEC-/350447938887?hash=item5198532d47 for the Myford oilers,

Supercut http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEAT-CUTT...I-METAL-USE-/271915839730?hash=item3f4f7270f2 and

Slideway 68 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SLIDEWAY-...TY-LUBETECH-/351082248507?hash=item51be21f93b for gears and bedways

They're all about £20 delivered for 5 litres.

...no affiliation just a satisfied customer.
Jon

 

[AndyT]

I asked similar questions when I got my Barnes treadle powered lathe a few years ago.

For a cutting lubricant I bought a litre of Multicut G from Chronos - http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?WD=multicut&PN=Oils.html#aMG1 and diluted it 1:25 into a plastic water bottle. Admittedly I don't use much as I don't do loads of turning, and at the speed I work there is not so much heat, so it's probably a lifetime's supply. But it is pleasant to use and does not go rancid. (I've also used it on diamond or other very fine honing stones.)

For general lubrication of the moving parts, I already had an oil can with some old 20W-50 multigrade in, so used that.

And for the ways, thinking that you really want something slippery but not sticky, so as not to pick up dirt, I used some dry lubricant as sold for use on bike chains, as I already had some. In my case it's Finish Line Dry, which is pretty much PTFE in a bottle, but there are other similar products around. It's worked fine for me.

I can see that in a production environment the detailed chemistry of all this stuff equates to profits and matters a lot, but as I have effectively begun my turning with the technology of a century ago, I don't lose any sleep over possible sub-optimal choices!

 

[Togalosh]

Thank you Gents.

Even after your advice it was still hours of reading & weighing up the different ones with pricing & whatnot. I guess it will only be experience over time then trying out a few types/brands that will really give me an answer as to whether what I have bought tonight is good or not.. but as you say DTR; something is better than nothing.

I hadn't noticed that the Chronos Multicut is to be diluted 1:25, that sounds like a good deal. Thanks AndyT.

 

[graduate_owner]

Regarding DTRs comment on casting etc, I read an article about making your own motorbike some while ago. They suggested it was quite feasible in the home workshop, although they also suggested buying the actual engine as a time saver. I am fairly new to metalworking but I have a floor standing milling machine, a surface grinder and a Colchester Master lathe so I consider myself quite well equipped, but honestly I would not have a clue where to start on making a motor bike from scratch. I have such a lot to learn.

K

 

[pcb1962]

I hadn't noticed that the Chronos Multicut is to be diluted 1:25, that sounds like a good deal.

This is a soluble oil for use as a pumped flood coolant, not for dripping or brushing onto the job which is probably what you're looking for.

 

[AndyT]

I hadn't noticed that the Chronos Multicut is to be diluted 1:25, that sounds like a good deal.

This is a soluble oil for use as a pumped flood coolant, not for dripping or brushing onto the job which is probably what you're looking for.

Did I mention I'm only a beginner at metal turning?

(I think I've got away with it so far... with my treadle powered lathe, I think I get hotter than the workpiece!)

 

[kinsella]

Hi Togs
I'm in exactly the same position as you. Just picked up a small model making lathe. Anyone know an oil that you can pick up in Halfords that would also do the trick? I have WD40 but I want cutting oil for a Mill and a lathe. Mainly using steel and brass. WD40 sounds like it will be ok for brass but any thoughts on steel.

 

[MusicMan]

I do quite a lot of metal cutting. All as mentioned above: 3 in 1 for most things, way oil for ways (google 'Way Oil"!) and CT-90 for cutting, whether lathe, miller or taps/dies.

WD40 isn't really a lubricant but a penetrating agent (and not the best). But as said, better than nothing.

Keith

 

[martinka]

On impulse, I bought some Clarke cutting oil from Machine Mart and was surprised what a difference it makes. About £8 for a litre, though that was a year back.

 

[pcb1962]

WD40 isn't really a lubricant but a penetrating agent (and not the best). But as said, better than nothing.

WD40 or Paraffin are the usual lubricants of choice for machining aluminium.

 

[woodpig]

I use Trefolex or similar for taps and dies and suds for turning.

 

[kinsella]

On impulse, I bought some Clarke cutting oil from Machine Mart and was surprised what a difference it makes. About £8 for a litre, though that was a year back.

good point, didn't think of MachineMart as there is one close by. Will get their cutting oil.

 

[RogerP]

I do quite a lot of metal cutting. All as mentioned above: 3 in 1 for most things, way oil for ways (google 'Way Oil"!) and CT-90 for cutting, whether lathe, miller or taps/dies.

WD40 isn't really a lubricant but a penetrating agent (and not the best). But as said, better than nothing.

Keith

WD-40 was actually first developed as a water displacement liquid (WD40 stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try) but has, of course, since found a zillion other uses.

 

[chipmunk]

If you prefer smaller quantities than 5L then ArcEuro sell Rock Oils which cover the same range of applications.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Protection-Grease-Adhesives/Rock-Oil-Lubricants

...but there's a premium to pay.
Cutting oil is about 5x price and ISO-68 is around 2.5x price of the links I provided earlier.

HTH
Jon