Scheppach HMS 2600 ci fence setup

[SteveLuck]

Hi,

I have just bought a second hand Scheppach HMS 2600 ci which has had very little use. This is my first workshop tool so I am very excited however need some advice.

The fence (I think this is what it is called) does not run parallel to the cast iron table, i.e. there are lines running along the table and the fence is at a slight angle to this. I have tried to change all the angles using the adjusters on the fence but this is one that cannot be adjusted.

I am beginning to think this is meant to be like this so that when I plane a piece of wood the blade cuts into it at a very slight angle to minimise kickback.

Please could someone advise me whether this is correct or whether I might have a faulty fence?

Thanks

Steve

 

[marcros]

i certainly dont think that it is an anti kickback feature- what would be the point of having a machine that is incapable of producing a square cut?

 

[Jake]

It doesn't make a jot of difference, and it is unlikely the skew is enough to make any difference to anything. As long as it is square to the table, that's what counts.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Post removed due to gross stupidity.
Unfortunately it's already been quoted...

 

[CHJ]

How far out is it?
I'm afraid I disagree with Jake on this. Quite strongly so, in fact. A rip fence that toes into the blade can quite significantly increase the risk of kickback. One that toes out can reduce kickback, but causes other problems, especially if cutting outboard.
It should be possible, and is very desirable, for it to be dead on parallel. You may have to fettle the table WRT the frame of the saw, or the Trunnions WRT the table, depending on how the saw is constructed.
S

Steve, I think you will find that a Scheppach HMS 2600 is a Planer/Thicknesser not a Table Saw.

 

[Jake]

How far out is it?
I'm afraid I disagree with Jake on this. Quite strongly so, in fact. A rip fence that toes into the blade can quite significantly increase the risk of kickback. One that toes out can reduce kickback, but causes other problems, especially if cutting outboard.
It should be possible, and is very desirable, for it to be dead on parallel. You may have to fettle the table WRT the frame of the saw, or the Trunnions WRT the table, depending on how the saw is constructed.
S

It is a planer-thicknesser.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Oops!
Today's red-face episode.

In which case I don't disagree with Jake at all.

Sorry, everyone. Ah well, I suppose it gave you all a giggle.

 

[SteveLuck]

I have marked where the difference in measurements are.

The distance of A is about 3-4mm less than B. It looks as though C, the arm that attached to the fence has been welded to the plate at a slight angle.

Is this setup normal?

 

[Steve Maskery]

Let me see if I can redeem myself.
No it's not normal, but it really doesn't matter.
How is the supporting rail fixed to the infeed table? Most PTs don't have that arrangement for fence mounting, but I admit that it does solve the problem of having a support arm sticking out behind the machine. You can get yours closer to the wall. If that is the same extrusion as on my Scheppach bandsaw, I'll bet it is, and if it is mounted in the same way, then you can look underneath. Is there any play in the mounting holes for the support brackets?
You might be able to sort it out, but it doesn't matter if you an't.
S

 

[Jake]

Much as Steve is suggesting you might be able to shim the bar, but it makes no practical difference.

 

[SteveLuck]

Thanks guys, there were two alley key bolts underneath connecting the supporting rail to the infeed table that allows for adjustment. My fence is now straight!

Thanks for the help.

Steve

 

[Steve Maskery]

You see, I'm not totally stupid after all.
Please see signature.
S