Sash Windows with Georgian Bar Help

[MooreToolsPlease]

Evening all,
Another one of my problem jobs here...
I got a call from a customer saying that he needed 2 vertical sliding sash windows cut down in height.
They had been wrongly ordered, and were 6!!! inches too tall for the opening.
I'm just wondering how exactly the big companies join the georgian bars where the intersect. See photo..

I want to use one continuous piece for both parts, to maintain some strength in the joint.
Here is what I have come up with so far..

I have done a half lapped joint with all the corners mitred

Here is a pic of both joints together

I have 16 of these intersections to do, and time is of the essence.
I set up the radial arm saw to cut the depth of the lap joint, then used a chisel to form each mitre using a guide block sized to do both sides in one position.
Any ideas for a faster way?

 

[Scrit]

Router, guide bush and jig? One of the American router bit companies (PriceCutter.com) offers a system to do that on their web site. Wromg profile, but the method could be adapted I feel - see here

Scrit

 

[Anonymous]

Basically its a **** job and I really wouldn't bother if I were you. I'd tell them to go back to the people who made them in the 1st place. If they can't help then offer to make some new ones from scratch.
One way or another you are being offered the ****** end of the stick and they probably won't like it whatever you do.
cheers
Jacob
PS I forgot to add - glazing bars in sashes go through vertically (where all the stress is) and are cut horizontally. Casements the opposite.
PPS which means that the vertical ones are through tenoned with wedges and the horizontal ones just stub tenoned.

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

Jacob,
Thanks for the tips on glazing bars, These are only stick ons though.
I know the job isn't the best in the world, but I am doing it per hour, so I wont lose any money at it.

 

[RogerS]

These are only stick ons though.

Travesty ! Not your call, I know, but doesn't the customer mind seeing the back face and all the glue being reflected back from the glass?

 

[Anonymous]

Jacob,
Thanks for the tips on glazing bars, These are only stick ons though.
I know the job isn't the best in the world, but I am doing it per hour, so I wont lose any money at it.

Well I hope it works out for you.
You pay a price with **** jobs however, which is that you become associated with **** jobs even if you aspire to and are capable of better ones. People will look at your work and say "that's **** innit" even if you were doing the best you can in the circs, at a good price.
Been there. done it several times, decided never again.

cheers
Jacob

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

There are false spacers put in the sealed units when they are made.
The bars are stuck on both sides with double stick tape and then siliconed round.
Looks almost like the real thing, the only thing that gives it away is the smaller dimensions of the muntin bar

 

[DomValente]

Jacob wrote

You pay a price with **** jobs however, which is that you become associated with **** jobs even if you aspire to and are capable of better ones. People will look at your work and say "that's **** innit" even if you were doing the best you can in the circs, at a good price.
Been there. done it several times, decided never again.

Me too

 

[Anonymous]

I now have a minimum price on my kitchens which I quote to avoid lower end kitchens and also to make people aware of my pricing before I draw anything. As the others have stated once you get banded into a group its very hard to move up. I also refuse to lower my prices after quoting as this soon gets out as well and then everyone tries it on.