Pillar Drill Table.
- Thread starter Gary
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Steve Maskery
Established Member
Hi Gary
I have one where all the knobs and levers are out of the way, either underneath or behind the fence. It's not on my DVDs but if you raid your British Woodworking library, you'll find it in some dark dusty corner there. Sorry, I can't give you an issue number.
S
I have one where all the knobs and levers are out of the way, either underneath or behind the fence. It's not on my DVDs but if you raid your British Woodworking library, you'll find it in some dark dusty corner there. Sorry, I can't give you an issue number.
S
tisdai
Established Member
You could try here Gary, might find somthing usefull, 1 of them even has draws on it lol..
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2010/03/15/turn-your-drill-press-into-a-router-8-free-plans/
Cheers
Dave
http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2010/03/15/turn-your-drill-press-into-a-router-8-free-plans/
Cheers
Dave
mtr1
Established Member
There is a video on Stu's shed that shows a useful looking drill press table.
TheTiddles
Established Member
Some of the ones that can be bought from Rockler give good inspiration, however for my opinion.
Replaceable inserts for through drilling. Possibly the best way to do this is a load of plastic disks of a certain diameter and a forstner bit of same said diameter, when the table is all made and clamped down drill the recess for the inserts, then when one gets chewed up you can pop in another.
Stop blocks left and right with scales on centred on the middle so you can set repeatable holes from the left or right of a workpiece.
An insert that can be swapped out to create clearance for the lower end of a sanding drum and a box beneath with extraction so you can use your vacuum on it too.
If you have a fixed table, make it the same height as your bench/planer/saw so you can use it or them as in or out feed table.
A super accurate fence can be made by pivoting the fence at one end and restraining it the other, however that takes out the option of stop blocks centred on the middle. I use a morticer as a drill press so I have an iron fence with a fine adjust already built in that I can extend from.
T-Track for the fence can be used for hold downs and fixtures which is usefull so bring them right to the front of the table not just at the back
Aidan
Replaceable inserts for through drilling. Possibly the best way to do this is a load of plastic disks of a certain diameter and a forstner bit of same said diameter, when the table is all made and clamped down drill the recess for the inserts, then when one gets chewed up you can pop in another.
Stop blocks left and right with scales on centred on the middle so you can set repeatable holes from the left or right of a workpiece.
An insert that can be swapped out to create clearance for the lower end of a sanding drum and a box beneath with extraction so you can use your vacuum on it too.
If you have a fixed table, make it the same height as your bench/planer/saw so you can use it or them as in or out feed table.
A super accurate fence can be made by pivoting the fence at one end and restraining it the other, however that takes out the option of stop blocks centred on the middle. I use a morticer as a drill press so I have an iron fence with a fine adjust already built in that I can extend from.
T-Track for the fence can be used for hold downs and fixtures which is usefull so bring them right to the front of the table not just at the back
Aidan
kirkpoore1
Established Member
I only had a short column and no table for my drill press, so I built this:
The center section is a piece of 3/4" MDF and is meant to be replaced as needed. The side sections are wings off of an old table saw. I got them so I could clamp stuff down easily. Three drawers and a shelf hold lots of stuff (maybe too much).
The frame is mostly pine, but the cross members holding the DP base casting are oak, mortised into the back legs and side rails. That's because the drill press head and column alone weigh over 300 lbs.
The main drawback from your point of view is likely that this method required a DP with an adjustable height head.
Kirk
The center section is a piece of 3/4" MDF and is meant to be replaced as needed. The side sections are wings off of an old table saw. I got them so I could clamp stuff down easily. Three drawers and a shelf hold lots of stuff (maybe too much).
The frame is mostly pine, but the cross members holding the DP base casting are oak, mortised into the back legs and side rails. That's because the drill press head and column alone weigh over 300 lbs.
The main drawback from your point of view is likely that this method required a DP with an adjustable height head.
Kirk
cambournepete
Established Member
I picked up the Axminster one at auction for £20 or less.
It's not bad except that the support for the fence hits the pillar of the drill and restricts the back movement of the fence.
Worth looking at the pictures to get some ideas perhaps?
It's not bad except that the support for the fence hits the pillar of the drill and restricts the back movement of the fence.
Worth looking at the pictures to get some ideas perhaps?
Woodchips2
Established Member
Gary":a4nald6v said:
Hi Gary
I built a very simple table and have found it invaluable for repetitive drilling.The base is a piece of plywood covered with hardboard with the centre section a loose fit so as it wears it can be replaced. The fence is made from MDF and is adjustable with two knobs running in slots.
http://s1208.photobucket.com/albums/cc361/Oldtaffy/?action=view¤t=Drillpresstable1.jpg
Regards Keith
big soft moose
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The Eriba Turner":3oiz2ujl said:
fixed it for you
Woodchips2
Established Member
Sorry Gary, trying to get to grips with posting images from photobucket. Now searching for the guide!Gary":3kmh33kk said:
Regards Keith
big soft moose
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Gary":13y0m0jl said:
doh - Theres something up with the actual links cos ive fixed the img tags
lets try again
Yee ha - sorted it
Perhaps a passing mod could tidy up a bit ?
Woodchips2
Established Member
Thanks big soft moose. I think I used the wrong link having found the instructions after I posted. I'll have another go to see if I've learned a lesson.
Regards Keith[/img]
Regards Keith[/img]
big soft moose
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yep thats working - tho you still have an unecessary [/img] tag at the end after your name
FWIW I didnt use the preprepared lines it gives you in photo bucket because they sometimes go pearshaped
If you right click on the image, go to properties and click that it gives you the image url - inserting that inbetween
always works, but you must have no spaces between the urll and the brackets, and your image url must end in the file extension , e.g .jpg
FWIW I didnt use the preprepared lines it gives you in photo bucket because they sometimes go pearshaped
If you right click on the image, go to properties and click that it gives you the image url - inserting that inbetween
Woodchips2
Established Member
big soft moose":1mqt8o9b said:yep thats working - tho you still have an unecessary [/img] tag at the end after your name
FWIW I didnt use the preprepared lines it gives you in photo bucket because they sometimes go pearshaped
If you right click on the image, go to properties and click that it gives you the image url - inserting that inbetweenalways works, but you must have no spaces between the urll and the brackets, and your image url must end in the file extension , e.g .jpg
Thanks moose for the help and advice. Much appreciated.
Regards Keith
