Good information for router cutting direction

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adidat

I will not buy anymore tools...
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whilst looking for some Festool information i came across the manual for the 1400 router. its got some good information on the correct direction for cutting, to avoid break out poor lines. But most importantly to avoid a serious injury. so thank Festool for creating the information, I would consider posting these up in my workshop somewhere, on the inside lid of the router box maybe?

router1.jpg


router2.jpg


router3.jpg


adidat
 
Is it me or have they by description got the push cut and climb cut labels the wrong way round in the first digram.

The push cut arrow is travelling in the same direction as the rotation arrow which to me means climb cut.
 
nope don't think so, the push cut is creating a shearing action where as the climb cut will be grabbing at the timber, it takes some time to get your head around it.

adidat
 
Adidat is right, ordinarily the cutter is pushing into the workpiece creating a backwards force so that you have to push the router into the cut, giving you greater control. The danger with climb cutting is that with the cutter running in the same direction as the feed the machine can run away with you. Climb cutting is however a perfectly acceptable procedure so long as you are aware of what the machine is trying to do and you take adequate precautions such as only taking a very small cut on each pass.
 
I've only ever used the push-cut method when using a router.
Can someone please explain why the climb-cut method is used as I thought this would damage the cutter?
 
Climb cutting CAN give a superior finish, because the surface fibres are being compressed into the workpiece rather than being lifted off. BUT this can only be done without serious increased risk if the amount being taken off is very very small, a finishing cut.
It's definitely not to be recommended as general practice.
 
The push cut is the standard and safest way to use a router without doubt. However climb cutting is a technique used to to obtain a cleaner finish in some situations. For example when you get to the end of a board going with the grain you run the risk of breaking out the unsupported cross grain at the end of the cut. however if you had made a short climb cut on that end prior to making the main cut you would avoid this. Also when making cuts along the grain with a push cut the natural tendency due to the rotation of the cutter is to push the grain up which can leave a rough finish. If you follow up with a very shallow climb cut because the cutter is now rotating into the grain with a shearing action you get a much better finish.

That all makes sense to me I hope it does to you, although I am sure someone much more eloquent than I will be along shortly to explain it better.

If you do try this remember, VERY shallow cuts and make sure you have a firm grip on the router as the rotation of the cutter will try to pull the router away from you.

Richard
 
Those explanations are very clear to me now.
Thank you I have definately learned something I didn't know before.
Cheers.
 
Steve Maskery":gybnix5k said:
Climb cutting CAN give a superior finish, because the surface fibres are being compressed into the workpiece rather than being lifted off. BUT this can only be done without serious increased risk if the amount being taken off is very very small, a finishing cut.
It's definitely not to be recommended as general practice.

Or if the workpiece is secured and fed past the cutter, like with a Woodrat or fastened down to a sliding table.
 
Actually, the biggest problem I find with hand held climb cutting is that, although the finish is very smooth it can be slightly "wavy" as the cutter pushes itself away from the workpiece and then you push it back in. This cycle repeats itself throughout the cut, unless you hold the router very very firmly against the workpiece, producing a series of tiny ripples.
 
The definition of push cut in the article is that the wood moves against the rotation.

The first picture in the article shows push cut arrow pointing in the same direction as the rotation.
 
James C":185td8hg said:
The definition of push cut in the article is that the wood moves against the rotation.

The first picture in the article shows push cut arrow pointing in the same direction as the rotation.

Correct, but the arrow is the direction the BIT is moving not the WOOD ;)
 
I found similar info before I first tried using the router and absorbed it, then when it came to using the table everything is reversed and I completely confused myself :D
 
James C":3lxmtxmt said:
The definition of push cut in the article is that the wood moves against the rotation.

The first picture in the article shows push cut arrow pointing in the same direction as the rotation.

The large arrow indicates the direction of the router as the bit is fed through the wood, i.e. a hand held router, not a router table where the wood is fed past the cutter. I think if you re-check the text this will become apparent.
 
A warning to inexperienced users. Inverted routers, or overhead routers and climb cutting is a definite no-no, unless you are using a power feeder. Hand feeding wood into an overhead router or inverted router in climb cut mode is asking for trouble, ie, it's all too easy to get your hand sucked into the cutter.

Climb cutting and hand held routers are do-able, and even common, but you need to really know what you're doing. Slainte
 
(homer) I see it now. #-o

I always look at these problems from a router table point of view. I just saw the arrow on the wood and thought that's not right.
 
James C":3nwkzqwo said:
(homer) I see it now. #-o

I always look at these problems from a router table point of view. I just saw the arrow on the wood and thought that's not right.

Still confuses me when I go from plunge to table and back, I have not as yet got it wrong but you can bet its coming!
 
Louise-Paisley":1cu2opts said:
James C":1cu2opts said:
(homer) I see it now. #-o

I always look at these problems from a router table point of view. I just saw the arrow on the wood and thought that's not right.

Still confuses me when I go from plunge to table and back, I have not as yet got it wrong but you can bet its coming!

You might be surprised how far you can shoot a piece of wood across the workshop :arrow:

I know I was :oops:
 

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